Eat Drink Repeat

Cowtown’s annual extravaganza of eating and drinking has come a long way since the inaugural Fort Worth Food + Wine Festival in 2014. Organizers continue to dial in the details; this year’s festival includes a single venue for the four-day affair, no overlap of events and two reimagined offerings. Never been before? Just know that FWFWF is distinct in atmosphere and taste from November’s Chef for Farmers Food + Wine Festival in Dallas. It’s definitely worth a trip (or short staycation). While locals can take part in specialty events throughout the year, such as wine tastings, multicourse dinners and a chefs’ skeet shoot, the main action takes place in April. Here’s a bite-size breakdown with tips and a bit of history.

ORIGINS

The festival grew out of Twenty at the Tower, a summer dinner series held over 20 nights in 2013 in a vacant firstfloor restaurant space in The Tower, a Fort Worth highrise. Each evening welcomed only 50 guests, and the event’s chef and multicourse menu were revealed that night. Among the featured culinary stars were Dallas chefs John Tesar and Matt McCallister. The concept drew inspiration in part from Dallas’ 48 Nights, a 2010 pop-up dining experience, and FWFWF’s creators conducted research trips to established food festivals in cities such as Charleston, South Carolina.

WHO BENEFITS

The local food scene, of course. But the FWFWF foundation over the years has expanded its nonprofit mission, funding culinary education for high schoolers, endowing college programs and creating an employeerelief program for those in the food and beverage industry.

LOCATION, LOCATION, LOCATION

Initially, events were held at venues ranging from a hotel ballroom to a popular honky-tonk. The festival finally found its permanent home in 2018 at the Heart of the Ranch Clearfork. The outdoor venue is carved from tree-filled acreage that belongs to the Edwards Ranch development near the Trinity River. A large parking lot manned by volunteers keeps things orderly, and while the event has largely dodged inclement weather, massive tents allow the talent and guests to stay dry.

THE FOOD

Our favorites among the Fort Worth chefs, food-truck veterans and catering specialists, familiar and new, are the chefs who offer that perfect one-bite sample — not too big, not too small — packed with flavor that leaves us blissfully nodding. Like most festival veterans, we appreciate unusual combinations, thoughtful garnishes and eye-pleasing presentations made in less-than-ideal circumstances. Memorable dishes from past festivals: grilled slices of tender wagyu wrapped in a shiso leaf from Tiffany Derry; a nopales and radish taco with avocado crema from Kevin Martinez; and deep-fried tempura-battered sunflowers from Jenny Castor. There typically are one or two dessert stations, and vegan/ vegetarian offerings generally appear at the Thursday and Friday events.

OUR RECOMMENDATION

Pace yourself; avoid seconds to make sure everyone gets a taste; and try as many dishes as possible, especially from people and places new to you.

THE DRINK

Wine gets major billing, and choices abound, including pours from national vineyards such as California’s Silver Oak and awardwinning Texas wineries such as William Chris Vineyards in the Hill Country. The festival is the perfect opportunity to sip a new favorite. Local brewers and distillers are especially prized at “Tacos + Tequila.” Seek out cool cocktail lounge spaces for specialty drinks, and, if you’re attending the Sunday brunch, find the coffee vendor stat. To stay hydrated, take advantage of the free iced bottled water in big barrels strategically placed throughout the venue.

HELPFUL INFO

• Is the early admission ticket worth it? You avoid lines and beat the crowd. It also gives you a chance to do a quick lap around the grounds to scope things out.
• Dress comfortably. The Heart of the Ranch is not paved so leave those cute stilettos at home.
• If you’re like us, a day of eating calls for loose clothing. Crossbody bags or waist packs come in handy to keep hands free for juggling plates and cups. Seating is mainly wood picnic tables. If you happen to dribble barbecue sauce on your shirt, there are Tshirt vendors. Layer up if the weather forecasts temperature fluctuations.
• Relax and enjoy yourself. There’s great people watching and good music while you catch that second or third wind. Be sure to check out Hello Trouble Hall, a mobile trailer that opens up to reveal a bar/mini club with limited seating and lots of Texas music history. It has been a fixture at the festival since the beginning.
• And drink responsibly. There’s a lot to sample, but good decisions are your best choice.

NOTE Early entrance offers access one hour earlier than general admission tickets at all events. Early access tickets to some events are already sold out.

TACOS + TEQUILA
6:30-9 p.m.
April 9
Tickets $129, $75(early admission)

T+T has been part of the festival since the beginning and typically draws a younger crowd. Expect a mix of traditional and adventurous tacos. Pace yourself on the tequila.

DON’T MISS Los Guapos Mexican Street Food, which got its start in a Fort Worth gas station

THE MAIN EVENT
6:30-9 p.m.
April 10
Tickets $229; $145 (early admission)

This evening event offers the broadest range of chefs and restaurants, including Malai Kitchen, familiar to Dallas and Fort Worth diners. Some of Fort Worth’s newest restaurants are represented, including The Mont and Bocca Osteria Romana. Wine lovers are sure to find something they love.

DON’T MISS James Beard nominee Roots Southern Table

FORK + FIRE 69
p.m. April 11
Tickets $159; $105 (early admission)

The popular Burgers Brews + Blues has morphed into a broader and more ambitious event. It’s still meat-centric with plenty of barbecue, burgers, of course, and more from “The Fireside,” a live-fire grilling area. Notable newcomers include Cattlemen’s Steakhouse, the Fort Worth Stockyards restaurant whose profile has broadened thanks to the popular Landman TV series. The “Taste of Texas Row” makes its debut featuring talent that represents Fort Worth plus three other major Texas food festivals from the state’s biggest cities: Dallas’ Chefs for Farmers Food + Wine Festival, Austin’s Hot Luck festival and Houston’s Southern Smoke Festival. Dallas chefs include Eduardo Osorio from Meridian and Aubrey Murphy from SER Steal + Spirits. The Fort Worth team includes Graham Elliot of Le Margot, Marcus Paslay of Scratch Hospitality (Walloon’s, Clay Pigeon, Piattello Italian Kitchen, Provender Hall) and Jenny Castor of Luckybee Kitchen. Also new is the “Hidden Gems” spotlight featuring destination restaurants located outside of major metropolitan areas. Included is Oma Leen’s of Hico. Entertainment includes two stages of live music.

DON’T MISS Dayne’s Craft Barbecue, which always excels at festival fare