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Pay It Forward

The nonprofit Taste Project expands its locations and its mission

In Fort Worth, a run-down building got a top-to-bottom makeover. A local craftsman made the tables; wood, brick and polished concrete floors are part of the interior’s natural look. PHOTOS BY MEDA KESSLER

All customers get a bill, but payment is optional.

Restaurants come and go these days, but one concept is thriving and growing. Taste Project, which opened its second location in March in Arlington, is a nonprofit that operates on a pay-what-you-can scale.

On an August weekend, the brunch crowd steadily filtering into Taste Project’s Fort Worth venue, which lies not far from the popular Magnolia Avenue/Main Street corridor of dining options, perfectly embodies its concept. A woman with a Sunday-go-to-church hat is there alongside a trio of 20-somethings glued to their smartphones and a family entertaining a couple of toddlers. A solo diner slips into his chair.

Servers cheerfully navigate the room, refilling water glasses, clearing plates and dropping off checks. But here, the bill has no prices, just a printed reminder about options: Pay what you can (even if it’s nothing), pay what you think the meal is worth or “pay it forward” by adding a little extra to help fund someone else’s meal.

Taste Project founders Jeff and Julie Williams created their faith-based nonprofit in 2012, and opening the restaurant was at the top their to-do list. Their first goal? Everyone, regardless of financial standing, should have access to healthy food.

Menu items range from the popular burger to more refined dishes such as salmon peperonata with a sauce of herbs and summer vegetables. For summer, lighter fare included a wedge salad. Chefs pull many ingredients from the patio garden. Bottom right: Summer brunch included blueberry peach blintzes

Regulars know the drill and readily tuck into their avocado toast, stacked enchiladas or chicken tortilla soup; first-timers are amazed to be ordering a multicourse meal prepared by chefs using fresh ingredients, including herbs and vegetables from the patio garden. Looking to create something far beyond a soup kitchen, the Williams have created inviting spaces. Both locations are bright and airy with comfortable seating, warm wood and stylish tilework. Tables are set with ceramic dinnerware, cloth napkins and sturdy silverware. Volunteers, who make up 80 percent of Taste’s workers, and customers represent a mix of socioeconomic backgrounds. Meals are healthy and hearty, and a no-takeout rule encourage a sense of community.

The open kitchen design allows customers a peek into how the food is prepared.

Moving beyond meal service, Taste Project continues to grow its mission with an expanded garden, culinary apprentice programs, more paid positions and fund-raising supper clubs featuring local chefs. The nonprofit received a financial and social media boost when TikTok food critic Keith Lee visited last February and left both a $4,000 donation and a positive shoutout to his 16 million followers.

He didn’t get a chance to try the food due to a full house but was wowed by the Taste Project’s aspirations. Our advice? Make a reservation.

TASTE PROJECT

Fort Worth serves breakfast and lunch Tues.-Sun. and weekend brunch. 1200 S. Main St.

For now, Arlington is lunch-only Wed.-Sun. 200 N. Cooper St., Suite 150, Arlington

tasteproject.org
facebook.com/TasteProject

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Meda Kessler is edible Dallas Forth Worth's art director, layout designer, and more.